Hanfu (汉服) vs. Xianfu (仙服) – What is a Historically Accurate Garment?
Left: A traditional silk hanfu (诃子裙) in the Tang style. Right: A modernised Tang style hanfu based on the same general silhouette.
Hanfu, renowned as traditional Chinese attire, has long been admired for its rich cultural significance. Derived from careful studies of historical relics and ancient texts, hanfu is a recreation of the clothing worn by the Han Dynasty and subsequent Chinese dynasties. It follows precise patterns and proportions, with many of its designs meticulously based on archaeological discoveries and relics preserved in museums.
Today, however, it is more loosely associated with long, flowing robes made from multiple layers of fabric, evoking a specific "ancient Chinese" aesthetic that has been popularised by dramas, comics, and games. This modern interpretation of hanfu is increasingly popular, but some have argued that it shouldn’t be classified as hanfu at all, but xianfu (仙服). Unlike Hanfu, xianfu tends to have a more whimsical, ethereal vibe, often characterized by flowy fabrics, asymmetrical cuts, and an overall dreamy look. This style has been heavily influenced by costumes in Chinese television dramas and video games, creating a fantasy-inspired garment that diverges from the historical accuracy of traditional hanfu.
The Debate: Should Hanfu Be Historically Accurate?
The modern-day hanfu trend has sparked a debate among enthusiasts. Some argue that in order for hanfu to remain a true cultural product, it must adhere to historical accuracy—remaining as close as possible to the clothing worn by the ancients. They believe that this respect for tradition preserves the cultural significance of the garment.
On the other side of the debate, there are those who feel that hanfu should evolve to stay relevant in the contemporary world. This group suggests that hanfu should embrace creativity and adapt to modern sensibilities while still maintaining its historical roots. For them, the emphasis is not solely on historical accuracy but also on the garment's cultural significance and its ability to connect with the present-day wearer.
The Evolution of Style: Early Inspiration from Buddhist Art
Interestingly, the idea of incorporating more fluid, flowing fabrics into traditional Chinese clothing is not a modern idea. This trend already took place back in Wei Jin period (3rd to 5th centuries), an era known for its ethereal, carefree style of fashion. During this time, aristocratic women added triangular fabric strips to the traditional 深衣 (shēn yī), transforming it into a more ethereal and flowing garment known as 杂裾垂髾 (zá jū chuí zhuì), or the "Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons Robe."
This evolution in dress was driven by a cultural shift among the aristocracy, who were drawn to philosophies that valued truth and personal freedom over rigid imperial structures. Their clothing became an expression of this ideology—graceful, unrestrained, and deliberately unbound by the formality of earlier court attire. The aesthetic was also deeply influenced by Buddhist art, where divine figures were often depicted in robes that seemed to float with movement, embodying an ethereal presence. This visual language of flowing fabrics and celestial grace left a lasting impact on the fashion of the Wei Jin period, inspiring garments that conveyed a sense of lightness, spirituality, and transcendence.
Left: Traditional style of hanfu from the Southern and Northern Dynasties (420-589). Right: Modernised fantasy-inspired hanfu based on the same silhouette, with floaty fabric strips.
Some Practical Considerations
Can hanfu and xianfu, then, be considered the same? Given the historical precedent of modifying traditional dress to achieve a distinct Chinese aesthetic—one that captures the cultural imagination—the answer seems to be yes, to some extent. However, this raises the question: how much modification is acceptable before a garment ceases to be considered traditional? And where do we draw the line between artistic reinterpretation and cultural authenticity? Practical adjustments, such as adding elastic or zippers for ease of wear, further complicate this discussion. Do these changes enhance accessibility while preserving tradition, or do they dilute the essence of traditional heritage?
We are particularly drawn to photographing historically accurate hanfu, as it offers a strikingly different interpretation of beauty—especially when paired with historical hair and makeup looks. However, we also recognize that not everyone resonates with or can effortlessly carry off these traditional styles. For those who prefer a more ethereal, fantasy-inspired look, we are happy to offer xianfu, as long as it complements the wearer and aligns with a cohesive artistic vision.
That being said, achieving the ideal aesthetic of hanfu or xianfu depends heavily on fabric choice. Historically, silk was prized for its elegance and natural drape, giving garments their signature floaty movement and refinement. Many modern hanfu made from synthetic fabrics fail to replicate this effect, often appearing stiff or artificial. This is why we carefully curate a selection of high-quality outfits for our clients' photoshoots—ensuring that each piece not only looks exquisite but also captures the grace and elegance of traditional Chinese attire.
Experience Hanfu or Xianfu for Yourself
If you’re curious to see yourself in hanfu or xianfu here in Singapore, simply get in touch for a non-obligatory consultation! Whether you envision a historically accurate look or a dreamy, ethereal style, we’ll work with you to bring it to life.